Saturday, May 8, 2010

Beating the bus

Being as I am from a small town in the land of cars, buses have always loomed as an especially terrifying way of getting around. When my friend Cameron left the Washington Heights neighborhood of New York City and moved to Woodlawn, I nearly fainted when her directions ended with “and then you cross the street and wait for the bus”. Wait for the what?? Get on the who?? Press the stop button when??! Oh my God. I would wind up in some murderous crack alley for sure.


Buses are without question the most intimidating form of public transportation. On subways and in taxis, it’s perfectly acceptable to stumble about, studying maps and asking inane questions. But buses leave precious little room for error. In fact, to be successful on a journey by city bus, you need to know where your stop is before you even get there.


When I lived in Aix-en-Provence during my third year of university, I lived just far enough outside the city for getting to and fro to be a mild hassle. In retrospect I am amused that I found both the walk I endured and the prospect of conquering local bus routes perplexing (Aix was small and manageable), at the time it was a new experience. I took the bus maybe twice- a relatively foolproof route as the lines by my homestay were more or less in a loop. But the tiny little bus intimidated me so much that I walked to and from downtown at all hours, in every manner of footwear. By the time I completed my 5-month study abroad, I had mastered the art of walking great distances over cobblestones in heels.


Confidence in my bus-route navigational skills hadn’t improved much by the time I moved to Boston, and so I carefully selected an apartment within walking distance of the T (subway). Occasionally I was forced to do the unthinkable and take the bus to visit a friend who lived in Brighton or Watertown, but the ordeal was made simpler by their living in easily recognizable areas or (most mercifully) at the very end of the line.


Avoidance can only go on for so long. Before I knew it, in an attempt to escape a heinous roommate, I was agreeing to live in Medford. The locale posed two transportation options: walk 20 minutes to the T or walk across the street to catch the 101 bus, which linked up to another T station. It was simple enough really, to walk across the street and wait for the thing. And on the rare occasion that I took the bus back home, I obviously had sense enough to know where to get off. My confidence in bus usage increased immensely, if unjustifiably. I found myself giving directions via bus in cocky tones along the lines of “really, you can’t possibly miss it.”


My puffed up chest would soon deflate.


After conquering Boston’s MBTA, I moved to Daegu. South Korea. I was on another planet. With an indecipherable alphabet and local populace that could tell with one glance that I wasn’t a local, my sense of ease with urban public transport came to a grinding halt. The subway was easy enough, as it consisted of only two lines and listed the name of every stop in both Korean and English. But buses… whoa.


The first person I met in Korea was my colleague and friend Courtney, who as far as I could tell was intimidated by absolutely nothing. She rolled through the city with ease, throwing around what seemed to me an impressive amount of Korean. That she could read Hangeul positively blew my mind- particularly on buses! With Courtney to hold my hand, I rode the bus to and from our friend Cheri’s and out to Daegok where her boyfriend Mark lived. I relaxed on these occasions and paid little attention, promising to start listening to her in time to remember the routes and stops for myself.


The next thing I knew, my babysitter had abandoned me. And I sort of knew which buses went where… but was I sure? Could I really handle it? Eh, best not to chance it and take a taxi, I reasoned. And so went the next 9 months of my time in Korea.


Sometimes it takes a sudden, surprising event in your life to make you realize you’ve been a total chickenshit about something ridiculous for an inordinate period of time. In my case, it was the breakup of a romantic relationship. I was “on my own again”, as the feeling goes, and it was time to reclaim my confident, invincible single self. How better to go about that, I decided, than to tackle this city bus business once and for all?


And so I did. On Wednesday, I walked over to the bus stop near my apartment and painstakingly glared at the routes of the two different buses that stop there, all in Hangeul of course. (Which, unlike during the Courtney days, I can now read for myself.) Aha- there it was! Kyung-day Kyo- Kyungpook University bridge- what I always told the taxi driver to get to Cheri’s apartment! I stood on the sidewalk and waited, tapping my card against my thigh and feigning impatience at waiting for that darned bus. When it arrived I climbed on as if it were the most natural thing in the world, something I do- la ti da- every day really. As our surroundings began to look familiar and I recognized Cheri’s neighborhood, I pressed the little stop button and hopped right off with the greatest of ease.


My second opportunity to conquer the bus came earlier tonight, as I made plans to leave my friend Ashley’s apartment. She lives in the same building where Courtney’s boyfriend Mark once was, that is to say, along another route I once tackled (avec babysitter) via bus. As I was leaving tonight she asked if I planned to go home by bus/subway, which I did want to do in an effort to avoid an expensive taxi ride. She told me where to go, and for a moment I panicked. “Which ones can I take? Which numbers?”


“The 406, the 703, the xyz, the 123….” I began to feel dizzy as she listed them all. I was about to reach for a pen and write them all down when she restored my confidence by reminding me: “You’ll be alright, you can read the sign. Just avoid the ones that don’t go to Sangin subway station.”


Goshdarnit, she’s right! I can read Hangeul! At least enough to decipher “Sangin” and the Korean word for “station”! And besides, I’ve been to there a hundred times, if not by bus. I’d totally recognize it. Truthfully, the fact that she so breezily believed in my navigational abilities made me feel quite proud and determined not to prove her faith ill-placed.


I made my way down to the bus stop and sure enough, was able to see which routes visited my desired stop. I also realized that only the “express” buses didn’t, which made the whole mess infinitely simpler. I took the first one that arrived, popped in my ear buds, and gazed out the window at landmarks that were surprisingly familiar.


As it turned out, I actually missed my stop. But I realized this immediately and only went about a block beyond where I’d originally intended to get off. I was amazed at never once feeling stressed or worried. It had only taken me 15 months, but I had managed the unthinkable- the Daegu bus system was mine. Expensive taxis be damned.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Stuff Students Say

I can’t take credit for this one- these are excerpts from my friend Cheri’s fabulously funny blog. But for the record, my experience is same-same. Minus the love for Transformers, zombie movies, and being Canadian.

STUDENT Teacher, you know Kimchi?
ME: Yes.
STUDENT: You like it?
ME: No.
STUDENT: That’s why foreigners fat.


ME: What is your favorite food?
STUDENT: I like cock!
ME: What?
STUDENT: Cock! I like chicken!


ME: What are some habits that are healthy to have?
STUDENT: Beans.
ME: Any more healthy habits?
STUDENT: No, just beans.
ME: Okay then.


STUDENT: Teacher, you like Transformer?
ME: Yes.
STUDENT: You like Dark Knight?
ME: Yes.
STUDENT: You like zombie movie?
ME: Yes.
STUDENT: You like dinosaur?
ME: Yes.
STUDENT: Teacher… you boy.


ME: What are some scary animals?
STUDENT 1: Lion!
STUDENT 2: Tiger!
STUDENT 3: And bear!
ME: OH MY!
STUDENT: (blank stare)
ME: Never mind.


ME: What do Canada and South Korea have in common?
STUDENT: Nobody find us on map, and both have neighbors people don’t like.


ME: Did you finish your homework?
STUDENT: No, difficult.
ME: Why didn’t you ask for help?
STUDENT: Not THAT difficult.


ME: What are some CULTURAL differences between Canada and South Korea?
STUDENT: Koreans are skinny, Canadians are fat.
ME: That’s not cultural… (Explain the word again)


STUDENT: I don’t need to be here teacher, I speak English already.
ME: Really? What does educational mean?
STUDENT: Spider.
ME: Sit down and study.


ME: (reading from the book)…"I have always gazed at the stars."
STUDENT: Teacher you gay for stars? Do you know gay?
ME: Actually its gazed… G-A-Z-E-D. Gazed means, "I have looked at the stars."
STUDENT: Oh... you know gay?
ME: Let’s just keep reading.


STUDENT: Teacher, if I no do homework you hit me?
ME: No.
STUDENT: Then why I do homework?
ME: Because if you don’t, I’ll be sad.
STUDENT: Don’t cry teacher, I try.


STUDENT: Do you like boys?
ME: Which boys?
STUDENT: All boys!?
ME: No, not all boys.
STUDENT: Why teacher? Are you lesbian?
ME: No, some boys are just stupid.
STUDENT: Yes. My brother stupid.


Me: Who can tell me the days of the week?
STUDENT: ME TEACHER!!! Oneday, Twoday, Threeday, Fourday, Fiveday, Sixterday and no school on Sevenday!
ME: Awesome.


STUDENT: Teacher who are you typing to?
ME: My friend.
STUDENT: Your boyfriend?
ME: No, just a friend.
STUDENT: Teacher, if you get more pretty, he maybe your boyfriend?


STUDENT: Teacher! On the Sunday, I went to the Jew.
ME: The Jew?
STUDENT: Yes the Jew, I saw a elephant, and a bear…
ME: Oh, the Zoo!
STUDENT: That what I say! The Jew.


(This was one of my advanced students)
STUDENT: Teacher do you have a boyfriend?
ME: No Jim, I don’t.
STUDENT: You know, the English teacher at my school is single.
ME: That’s nice.
STUDENT: He is handsome, and funny, and kind.
ME: Okay?
STUDENT: If you want I can show him your picture.
ME: (Oh my god) No, thanks Jim, that’s sweet though.
STUDENT: Sigh, okay teacher, but you should get boyfriend.


ME: Who can tell me what a verb is?
STUDENT: Action word.
ME: Very good. Can you give me an example?
STUDENT: Kill!
ME: Okay… anything else?
STUDENT: Bleed!
STUDENT: Die!
STUDENT: Shoot!
ME: Wow. Ummm, okay, who can use a verb in a sentence?
STUDENT: ME TEACHER! “I kill enemy, because I shoot him, and he die!”
ME: Wow. You get an A+.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

What's love got to do with it?

My boss William is generally a breath of fresh air in the tricky business that is my existence in Korea- he’s friendly, talkative, candid, and has a wonderful sense of humor. And best of all, he speaks to me as both a respected colleague and a bit of a parent. He is a wonderful window into the Korea that I can’t easily access for a variety of factors- the language barrier being the most prominent.

Tonight a former colleague who has just been married joined us for dinner, so the topic inevitably turned to dating, marriage, and all manner of relationships between the sexes. (Well okay, not all manner- this is still conservative Daegu!) Those present who had already taken the marriage plunge took it upon themselves to advise my 30 year-old colleague as to why he hasn’t managed to have long-term success with a girlfriend. Many of the tidbits were, in my opinion, quite reasonable. But then the conversation took a most unexpected turn when my boss suggested that perhaps he was placing too much emphasis on love.

“What?” I thought. “Is that possible? How can one place TOO much emphasis on love… isn’t that the main, central thing?”

As it turns out, my boss’s marriage was arranged. And despite being well aware of Daegu’s conservatism (in comparison with other parts of Korea), this genuinely surprised me. This is perhaps because from what I’ve been able to gather, from an admittedly limited perspective (that darn language barrier again), he and his wife have an amazing partnership. I can tell that they respect one another, amuse one another, and work well in both business and general life situations. They have vastly different personalities, but seem to balance one another out. And I have always thought that such a balance, coupled with love, is key to making a relationship work.

William explained that love is something that, in his experience, evolves naturally as the result of an effective partnership. His parents and his wife’s parents chose them for one another because they felt the two had very similar values, if not interests. They shared a certain work ethic and positive attitude. They came from similar backgrounds. These things, they felt, were the ingredients of a successful marriage. Love was barely even a consideration. They “dated” for 6 weeks, got married, and discovered love years later. As he so beautifully put it, “love was like an appetizer that came late in the meal. It was wonderful and important, but it wasn’t the main course.”

In the course of this discussion, my boss asked me about my own experience with relationships. “Do you think that you are able to have a long-term relationship, one ultimately leading to marriage?” he asked me. I surprised myself by answering, without hesitation, “Yes, I certainly do.” But I went on to explain that geography seems to be my greatest enemy. I have the desire to go to school, travel, pursue a career that engages my brain, soul, and passport. And all these things generally stand in direct opposition to the possibility of a long-term relationship.

I told him a little about Jack and the challenge facing us. I explained that he loves Korea and is here until at least February of 2011, while I'm over the moon about France in September. We want to be together, but neither of us wants to give up our respective dreams and goals. And while we are more closely aligned than any previous relationship I’ve ever had in terms of values, personalities, and interests, it seems that geography will ultimately come between us.

William then asked about our ages. I am almost 2 years older. He then seemed rather disinclined to believe in our long-term prospects: “Women mature at a faster rate than men,” he said. Quite right, in my experience. “For this reason, it would be difficult for the two of you to come to the same place at the same time.”

Was this an oversimplification of a relationship between two human beings? I am inclined to think yes. And on the opposite end of the spectrum, were I to really get into a conversation about the deeper elements of my relationship, a person of William’s mindset would likely dismiss it as being overly complicated! The thing is, Jack and I are in an emotional place that William probably didn’t reach until quite some time into his marriage. And what a bizarre thought that is! Which begs the question- who of us is going about relationships the wrong way? Am I investing too much, too soon? Would it be wiser to base these initial days, weeks, months on the more “practical” elements of a partnership?

Though dating does of course have its practical elements in my thinking, it is- for me- primarily about the search for love. Do I feel that special je ne sais quoi with this person? Does my heart rate double when he walks in the room? Am I overwhelmed by the urge to kiss him when he’s talking about Star Trek or some such other geeky thing? Yes I notice that he makes dumb jokes when he’s nervous, and odds are he'll never master the art of putting the toilet seat down. But, I’m great at booking hotels, while he’s a map guru. He buys me flowers to celebrate the fact that it's Tuesday.

If these elements fell together with zero emotional spark, they’d be meaningless. In the context of love, they’re pure gold.

William may very well have a point in suggesting that by placing love at the forefront of my priorities, I’m setting myself up for a serious challenge. Putting my heart before the connected dots on paper complicates my route to happily ever after. But with all of its challenges, frustrations, and heartbreaks, I’d take it to some coolly orchestrated marriage any day. I want to live in love- not sit around waiting for it to evolve in some distant corner.

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Airlines and Amour?

I read two news articles recently, completely unrelated, that I thought complemented one another nicely.

The first was about major airlines and how they have dealt with changes in service in response to the worldwide economic recession. American airlines, for the most part, have responded with cuts in every possible sphere. Less routes, less staff, and fewer comforts for travelers. Many things that were once included such as drinks, snacks, and lunches, are now "available for purchase". In some cases, even the scratchy blankets and odd-sized pillows in coach are only available to the traveler if he's willing to cough up a few dollars. Terrible though it all may seem, I am able to understand it in one vein of truly American culture.

Our forefathers brought with them a notion of working hard and forging one's way to the New World, and they didn't expect it to be easy. Roughing it and seeing the tough times through to the other side was an admirable feat, something understood to forge character. American life has long preached that we are to look out for number one- few expect to be catered to by friends, family, government, or certainly airlines. This sense of individuality can go a long way to explain why certain ideas- a state-controlled healthcare system for one- have taken such a long time to take hold in public consideration.

Asian airlies, on the other hand, have had a completely different reaction to the recession. Instead of cutting back, they have sought to increase quality! Korean Airlines serves organic meals, the products of which are grown on a farm the company owns on Jeju island. Singapore Airlines has upped the quality of their seats. And the employees of virtually all airlines in this region of the world have been required to undergo additional customer service training. The theory here is that more- not less- will maintain customer morale and encourage future business.

The second article was about a student group at Harvard that is discouraging promiscuity, reminding women that (as they put it) "they're worth waiting for". Its campaign has drawn fire from feminists on campus, who accuse it of advancing an ardently religious agenda behind a veil of female empowerment. The one side argues that women have lost the power that comes with the choice to say no in today's "hook-up culture", while its adversaries insist that the freedom to choose whether and with whom to have sex is a particularly hard-won prize of the feminist movement.

In my estimation, both are correct. Sexuality is a powerful thing- about that there is no question. The granting and/or withholding of the act itself has created historic events of immeasurable significance: Cleopatra's sway over Rome. Henry VIII's break with the Catholic Church. Hugh Hefner's media empire. Arguing over which is MORE powerful or commendable- giving it away or denying it- is in my mind a nonsensical argument. Because in reality, both are equally so.

You might wonder how I've managed to see a connecting thread between these vastly different stories. For me, both come back to a question of empowerment and individual expectation, and how varied such concepts can be. Is a person or a business exhibiting strength and/or confidence by being more open and giving, more willing to take a chance on customers/lovers? Or is it more admirable to hold back, always keeping the person on the opposite end of the table on edge, wanting more? What sorts of options- and which of them we ultimately choose- are the most empowering? Who and what should be priority #1?

Forgive my Carrie Bradshaw-esque manner of composing a blog mostly of questions... it is actually a literary pet peeve of mine! But as I found some of these notions rather to be rather thought-provoking, thought I'd spread the... provocation?

Monday, December 21, 2009

Next Steps

With my 1-year teaching contract in a Korea rapidly drawing to a close, I have been asked to blog about my thoughts on "next steps". Despite what my lack of mentioning it thus far might suggest, this is something that is constantly on my mind!

So what do I want to do? An exhaustive amount of soul-searching, analyzing, and pouring my heart out to friends and family has lead me to feel that graduate study is what is next in the cards for me. Or at least it is what I would like to be! Before arriving at this conclusion with a respectable degree of confidence, I thought it wise to begin the paper trail as though I was already there. Over the past several months I have sought out recommendation letters, wrote countless essays and news pieces, purchased additional transcripts from my alma mater, and filled in many an online form. The process became so routine and monotonous that I got lost in it, slightly forgetting why I was doing it in the first place. I have applied to schools that interest me greatly and schools that I find only mildly interesting, for little reason beyond avoiding having all my eggs in one basket. Truth be told, my undergraduate grades leave quite a bit to be desired, and I am terrified that they will hold me back from the dream that seems to grow in intensity by the day!

I want to be a journalist.

It's a thought that first occured to me at the age of 18, when I sat down at my mom's kitchen table with a mound of forms for USC in front of me. Despite that, I shied away from the idea, initially ticking the "English major" box instead. Feeling a bit braver one day, I went to my advisor and changed it to "broadcast journalism". On a more timid one, it became "advertising and public relations". And finally, it evolved into "French, with an advertising/public relations minor".

I'd never dare suggest that I regret that final transformation, because without it much of my life as I know it wouldn't be same. Learning a foreign language has opened innumerable doors and presented an idea of just how small this world is. Traveling and living overseas has increased my confidence tenfold, as there's nothing much like navigating a tiny Korean town to convince a person that she can handle whatever life dishes out! If anything, pursuing the study of French has pulled me in a circle that was vital to arriving at the realization of what I want to do.

The notion that this whole thing might indeed happen- that I might get into graduate school and have an opportunity to learn the craft of journalism- finally occurred to me last Friday night, at 1:00am Korea time. After a bit of a nervous breakdown, which I pulled myself out of by realizing that I might as well get used to this inconvenient time difference thing if I'm at all serious about becoming a journalist, I had an admissions interview with CUNY via Skype. I was nervous but pulled myself together as best I could, candidly explaining who I am, what my experiences have been, and why I want to pursue this challenging profession. And I managed to ask two well thought-out questions (which followed an admittedly sloppy first!)- the answers to which actually increased my sense of hope!

Interested as I am in pursuing international reporting, the interviewer commented on my strengths in that area as an applicant. She commented that many people apply to the program simply thinking "ah, this will give me an opportunity to travel!", while giving little real thought to what traveling, living, and reporting overseas might entail. "You already have an understanding of this- you're doing it now!" she said.

It was something I never considered before. Sure, life in a foreign country can be a challenge- that goes without saying. But I love it, crave it even. Most of the time when I am living in the United States, I am already daydreaming about my next trip or opportunity to live overseas. The background picture on my Iphone is of the Eiffel Tower by night. (And during the holidays, it changes to one of an Eiffel Tower Christmas ornament.)

I won't go into too much detail about my first choice of graduate program, because I am beginning to want it so badly that I don't want to risk jinxing it! Suffice it to say, being accepted would open many doors and fulfill the desire to do many things I've long wanted to: live in New York, go back to school, pursue a real career that will challenge and invigorate me, and last but never least- get back to France! Should it all work out, it'd almost be too good to be true!

In the meantime, I am trying my best to be patient and responsible- saving money and filling out all of that tiresome paperwork! I am looking to extend my teaching contract in Korea by a minimum of 5 months, so that I will be financially prepared to take that next step as it presents itself. By April, I should know what that next step will be.

Stay tuned...!

Monday, December 7, 2009

Reconnecting

In the whirlwind that was the years of my adolescence, there were plenty of unpleasantries- my parents’ divorce, best friends turned catty gossips, acne, braces, and the embarrassment of puberty. But even through the clouds there were powerful rays of sunlight that at times managed to burn away all the negative.

One such ray was a boy, who I won't refer to by name out of respect for his privacy. A pure and honest soul, he was able to engage my heart and mind in a manner far different from any other childhood friend. He was Southern and country to the bone, preferring the drone of a tractor to urban neon buzz any day. Through him I was able to indulge a part of my personality that lost direction after my parents’ split, engaging the country bits of my heart in a way that was happy instead of painful. Our time together was spent in the yard outside his rural home, or spinning the merry-go-round on the church playground. It was an innocent but deep friendship, and perhaps because of that depth always bordered on feelings of a different sort. I think we were both terribly romantic in our way, preferring letters to phone calls and able to talk freely about our thoughts, hopes, and dreams. But I never seriously considered dating because I knew we were just too different. That was what made our friendship so great- I am romantic, flighty, want to see the world, love things like poetry and wine and French cheese. He is a good ol' Southern boy who is kept sane by “tractor therapy”, loves living a quiet life in the country, and has an amazing mathematical brain. I always suspected that though I adore him, day-to-day life as his girlfriend would be hopelessly dull. I'd have never dared say so out loud, but in my heart of hearts this was how I felt. And I certainly never dreamed he'd have any interest whatsoever in traveling, let alone do it.

For years I kept his letters in boxes and drawers, though we lost touch after college. I often thought about trying to revive our friendship, but when I heard through the grapevine that he had gotten married, I wondered about the appropriateness of that. Being single and so far removed from the world of married couples, I wasn't really sure of the protocol. So, in an effort to err on the side of propriety, I did nothing.

And then one day, out of nowhere, he was back.

I received an email from him via a professional networking website, on which I created a profile a couple of years ago and promptly forgot about. I was shocked and exhilarated! For two solid weeks, we wrote one another at a feverish pace.

As for mister homebody-non-traveler… He travels to Boston regularly on business. My home of nearly three years! He had no idea I'd been living there, and said he couldn't believe we never spent time together while he was in town. What a waste! And, he also goes to the UK and- wait for it- FINLAND. He gushed to me in one of his emails about how beautiful Finland is, much in the way that I have written about places I love. Reading his words was such a profound moment of connection for me... in a place where I never imagined finding such. He told me that he often changed planes in Paris, and always kind of wondered if I was living there. Though he knew it was a far-flung possibility, but he always "kept an eye out" in Charles de Gaulle airport. Just in case.

This whole reconnection was a strange sort of epiphany, one that I couldn't quite put my finger on. It was an event so full of meaning, and yet I still don’t understand what I am to draw from it. Why didn't we ever connect in Boston? What drove him to suddenly now, after all these years, search for my name and hit the "send" button on an email? I thought I had such a clear idea of this guy, who he was and what his life was going to be like. And though I don't doubt my being right as far as personality, character, and day-to-day lifestyle, I was so grossly off the mark with many other things. In the corners of his heart, where I always thought I understood him best, I seem to know nothing at all.

I have no idea why he came back into my life. All I know is that I’m happy about it! Since reconnecting with him, my eyes seem to have reopened to the many things for which I should be thankful. I look around myself here in Kore and see... wonderful friends. A good job with pleasant co-workers and a boss who looks out for me. Endlessly amusing students. A comfortable apartment (that I don't have to pay for!). An entire fascinating country at my fingertips. On the other end of the spectrum, I also see more clearly the things that are to be avoided! My dear friend serves as an example of a caliber of man that, while rare, does exist and is well worth waiting for. In the land of beer-soaked 20-somethings looking to "just have fun" for one year, it's not a bad thing to remember.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

South Koreans Struggle with Race (NYT article)

An interesting follow up to a previous blog, "Colorful Daegu":

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/02/world/asia/02race.html?_r=1&scp=5&sq=south%20korea&st=cse